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Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Marudi - Baram Regatta, Char Kueh Tiaw and Tapah Fish



Marudi timber trade fuels local economic boom in the 70s and 80s. But the timber companies have since closed as all the primary forest have been logged and planted with oil palm. The population of this town has dwindled to less than 5,000 now, crippling the town’s economy and its pride. However, the legacy was constantly reminded.

Timber was the staple of Marudi trade for much of the 70s and 80s. Fueled by world demand, the timber trade brought immigration and fostered economic development, which transformed regional environment far more radically. However, the heavily depended on timber to fuel its economic boom has ended as most of the timber was harvested. 

The timber industry seems to be blamed for business being slow and the streets in this town are quiet. New commercial and  housing development have come to a standstill.

While the Baram Regatta which held once in three years is the biggest gathering of people in the Baram River basin, started since the peace-making treaty to end tribal wars some 115 years back.  It has always been attractive, upgrades and added programs and events activities such as cultural performances, traditional sports competition, Baram Idol, eauty pageants, exhibitions and many more have made the area a draw in itself for tourists to the festival.

Baram Regatta has its social and historical significance. It was first held in Claude Town (Marudi) from the 9th to 10th April 1899, marking the great peacemaking on the 3rd of the regatta.

Charles Brooke believed that the Baram Regatta would be a solution to their predicament, having hosted the first regatta, the Sarawak Regatta in Kuching in January 1871; Rajah Brooke mooted the idea and decided to promote it to the tribes living in the interior.

The controversial idea was conceived by Marudi British Resident Charles Hose who wanted to find a solution to end tribal conflicts and head-hunting activities among the various ethnic groups in the Baram district.

Charles Hose realized that with the exception of the Penans, all other tribes in Borneo utilize rivers extensively to traverse and to create boundaries as they expand their lands. The idea was taken on eagerly and soon felling of large forest trees was seen and war boats were carved from a single tree trunk, normally from the “engkabang” tree that could seat 30 warriors. 

The tree trunk was normally hollowed out with the use of fire and adze. Its masthead was shaped into a head of the majestic hornbill, given that the hornbill is highly revered in the Orang Ulu culture, regarded as a vessel for the spirits to communicate with the people.

The great peace marked an end to subjugation by the Madang; Kayans (Upper Rejang) and Lirong (Ulu Tinjar) of the Kayan and Kenyah of Ulu Baram. The focus of the celebration was to forge peace among the people and loyalty to the Government, pledged by every rival group leaders before the Resident Claude.

Hence, the event has over the years transformed into an event that allows visitors and locals to have the opportunity to experience the authentic rich cultural and historical heritage of Baram.

Marudi is famous for three things:
i.   Lai Lai Coffee Shop Marudi Char Kueh Tiaw has claimed the title of the town’s best Char Kueh Tiaw since it opened many years back. It’s next to Mount Mulu Hotel.  This is the original homemade Kueh Tiaw fried with bean sprouts and egg. The Kueh Tiaw is thicker that give the noodles a stronger bite. This is the difference between a handmade and a machine made. To serve, place a fried egg on top of the Char Keuh Tiaw. It’s simply delicious.
ii. Marudi freshly and fragrant baked Bread, a remnant of the White Colonial Days. Most people order loaves of bread to bring back to Miri or other parts of Sarawak whenever they make a stopover in Marudi. This special bread is made by the Phang family and the texture of the bread is reminiscent of the bread made by the Colonial Officers who enjoyed their English breakfast and afternoon teas. It has a special shape and most government officers continue to have some toasts every day in the shop.
iii. Tapah Fish, the river catfish locally known as ‘Ikan Tapah’ or its scientific name Wallago attu. It was common for the dwellers to catch 100 to 150 fish each spawning season from November to December. The fish could range in weight from 5 to 30 kg. Big ‘tapah’ fish are sold at RM40 per kg while the smaller ones are sold at RM30 per kg.

                                                                            Baram River

                                                                          Char Kueh Tiaw

                                                                           Char Kueh Tiaw

                                                                             Char Kueh Tiaw

                                                                          Raw Kueh Tiaw

                                                                             Fries Kueh Tiaw

                                                                             Lorong Empat

                                                                  Main Road Petty Trader


                                                                     Mount Mulu Hotel

                                                                     Fragrant Baked Bread


                                                                               Dry Tapah fish


Sunday, September 21, 2014

Marudi - Cultural Heart of Sarawak’s Highland Tribes Folk



A quiet town situated inland from Miri, similar in size to Kapit, Marudi is a town on the Baram River in the north of Sarawak which borders Sabah and the small country of Brunei.

Marudi is the cultural heart of Sarawak’s highland tribes folk, collectively called Orang Ulu. A riverine town about 100 km upriver from Kuala Baram, Marudi is the largest town in the sparsely-populated Baram district. It is also the district administrative headquarters and has been since the days of the White Rajahs.

It has a riverfront, a couple of buildings riddled with small shops, restaurants, the occasional hair salon, hotels and at the top, a museum on Marudi.

Marudi town is, as usual, dominated by Chinese has Chinese association as follows:
Hokkien Association Baram
59, Jalan Kapitan Lim Ching Kiat, 98050, Marudi, baram, Sarawak
Tel  : 085-755469  
Fax:  085-755049

Baram Foo Chow Association
Lot 29, Jalan Kapitan Lim Ching Kiat, 98050 Marudi, Baram, Sarawak
Tel: 085-755717  
Fax: 085-755333

Kwong Tung Community Association Baram
Lot 83, Jalan Kapitan Lim Ching Kiat, 98050 Marudi, Baram, Sarawak
Tel: 085-756678  
Fax: 085-755415

Hakka Community Association Baram
Lot 44, Jalan Kapitan Lim Ching Kiat, 98050 Marudi, Baram, Sarawak
Tel: 085-756282  
Fax: 085-755076

Like any other town in Sarawak, it is a common sight to see a Marudi Tua Pek Kong Temple situated nearby the Bram River.

The population of Marudi is approximately 83,900 as follows:

Malay        :   4, 800
Iban           : 29, 500
Chinese    :   5, 917
Kenyah     : 11, 031
Kayan       : 11, 387
Kelabit      :   2, 095
Penan       :   7, 724
Bidayuh    :       620
Melanau   :       420
There are 3 ways to get to Marudi :

By Air
MASwings Twin Otter from Miri - RM100 return ticket. Maswings fly from Miri to Marudi daily. A mere 20 min flight time as compared with 4 hours by road or 3 hours by boat upriver. This may be a good choice for those with limited time.

By Boat
From Kuala Baram jetty in Miri, there are speedboats leaving daily with the first boat scheduled at 7.20 am and there could be as many as 4 trips per day, depending on demand and weather permitting. The express provide transport from Marudi to Kuala Baram, Long Lama, Totuh and Tinjar.

By Road
Going by 4WD trucks from Miri is a little tougher and a little sore by the end of the trip. The road is bumpy and the 4WD will be bouncing along an old logging road, it takes about 3 ½ hours – 4 hours.

                               Marudi Town

                                                                             Marudi Town

                                                                  MASwings Twin Otter
 
                                                                            Marudi Airport

                                                                 One of the big Hotel

                                                                 District big events held here

                                                                                Market

                                                                               Interior Market


           Traditional House

                                                                                    BBQ

                                                                 petty trading on five-foot ways

                                                                           Tua Pek Kong

                                                                            Temple Outlook

Amazing Design

                                                                          Traditional Design

                                                           Wooden House along the main road

                                                                      To Komplek Persekutuan


Friday, September 19, 2014

Indigenous Durian in Sarawak



The indigenous red and orange durian from the rainforest of Sarawak is unique and rather small in size which can be held by a palm. It is found scattered in mixed dipterocarp forest. The fruit is covered with long sharp spines. The red durian, better known as Durian Sukang and the orange one called Durian Dalit, both are categorized as wild durian.

The wild durian of Sarawak is the King of fruits, although the flesh is thin and the taste is bland but their scent is strong and distinctive. 

Comparatively, the red flesh durian is almost creamy in consistency with an invigorating taste reminiscent of the orange durian, yet the taste and flavor is twice as strong as the orange one with its own characteristic unique flavor aroma. 

The red is more expensive and a bundle of 5 was sold as high as RM 45 in Limbang road side market.

                                                                             Red Durian

                                                                             Orange Durian

Orange Durian

                                                                          Orange Durian

                                                                           Bundle of Durian

                                                                           Bundle of Durian

                                                                        Good Harvest in Niah

                                                                       Limbang Market

                                                                              Limbang Market

                                                                 Limbang Road Side Market

                                                                 Limbang Road side market

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