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Wednesday, December 25, 2013

Mount Kinabalu - myth, legend or Folk Tales?



At one point, I have noticed that I was dreaming about the Mount Kinabalu mountain climb. However, I could even make it until today.

Attractive as it is, without a myth, legend and Folk Tales, the name of Mt Kinabalu can’t be spread by leap and bound. A myth gives a religious explanation for something: how the world or a particular custom began. There is usually no attempt to fix the myth into a coherent chronology related to the present day, though myths or a cycle of myths may have their own internal chronology. The story is timeless in that the events are symbolic rather than just the way it happened.

A legend, on the other hand, is a story which is told as if it were a historical event, rather than as an explanation for something or a symbolic narrative. The legend may or may not be an elaborated version of a historical event.

Folk tales tend to be transmitted orally, although they are transmitted from generation to generation and their origin or author is unknown, they are more definitely felt to be stories or fiction. 

Undoubtedly, there is little consensus on the most dramatic natural feature of Mount Kinabalu in Sabah. It is the tallest mountain in South-East Asia which is located in Kundasang. Mount Kinabalu is 4,095 metres (13,435 ft) above sea level and about 96 km east of Kota Kinabalu which became UNESCO World Heritage in 2000. 

Although Kinabalu's name is still a mystery, but interestingly, there are many folklores and fables that tell stories of how Kinabalu obtained its name. The local Kadazan-Dusun people believe that the word is derived from “Aki Nabalu”, which means “The revered place of the dead”. 

The mysterious Kadazan-Dusun tribe believes that spirits dwell on the mountain top. Among the bare rocks of the summit grows a moss which early Kadazan-Dusun guides said provided food for the spirits of their ancestor. Many of the mountain's early explorers reported that their Kadazan-Dusun guides performed religious ceremonies upon reaching the summit. 

Sir Hugh Low wrote in his guide carried an assortment of charms, pieces of wood, human teeth, and other paraphernalia weighing three kilograms up to the summit and the slaughter of one white chicken.

These ceremonies were performed to appease the spirit of the mountain as well as the ancestral spirits who lived there. Nowadays, a ceremony is conducted annually by the Kinabalu Park's guides. Seven chicken and eggs, as well as cigars, betel nuts, sirih leaves, lime and rice are sacrificed, and later enjoyed by the guides.

On the other hand, often than not, ancient mythology lies at the heart of Kadazan-Dusun culture. A Kadazan-Dusun creation myth tells how the supreme deities “Kinohiringan” and his wife “Umunsumundu” made the earth while “Kinohiringan” created the sky and the clouds. But the clouds were smaller than the earth and Kinohiringan was ashamed. 

To save his pride, Umunsumundu reshaped the earth, making it smaller, and thus created Mount Kinabalu, the mountain that we know today.

A Kadazan-Dusun story tells of a giant king named Gayo Nakan - big eater who lived at the base of the mountain. His people tired of his enormous appetite and were had pressed to feed him. Hearing their complaints, the king told them to bury him alive at the top of the mountain. 

Bringing all their tools they labored in vain, until the king uttered magic words and sank into the rock up to his shoulders. He then told his people that, due to their lack of patience, drought and famine would afflict them - but promised to help them in times of war. Fearful and penitent, the people made their first sacrificial offerings at the wishing pool below the summit and that was Gayo Nakan's grave.

In another popular folklore, the name Kinabalu actually means “Cina Balu”, which is “Chinese Widow”. 

Legend tells the story of a Chinese prince who ascends from the mountain in search of a huge pearl guarded by a ferocious dragon. He married a Kadazan woman upon his successful conquest, which he soon abandoned for return to China. His heart broken wife wandered into the mountains to mourn whereby eventually she turned into stone.

However, according to another version of the legend, a Chinese prince was cast away to Borneo when his ship sank in the middle of the South China Sea. He was subsequently rescued by the natives from a nearby village. As he recovered, he was slowly accepted as one of the people of the village. 

Eventually, he fell in love and married with a local. As the years went by, he started to feel homesick and asked permission from his newly-founded family go back to China to visit his Emperor and Empress of China parents. He promised to his wife that he would come back soonest to take her and children to China. He was given a grand welcome by the Emperor of China; however, the Emperor disagreed with him about taking his Bornean wife back to China.

Unexpectedly, he was informed he was already betrothed to a princess of a neighboring kingdom.  He had no choice but to obey. His wife grew more and more anxious. Eventually, she decided to wait for her husband's ship but couldn’t make it daily as the village was situated far away. Instead, she climbed to the top of the highest mountain near her village every morning in the hope that her husband would someday return, she was back only at night to attend the children.

Years went days pass and at last taken their toll on her health. Finally, she passed away at the top of the cold mountain while waiting for her husband. The spirit of the Mount Kinabalu was extremely touched by a wife’s unfailing love for her husband and out of admiration; it turned her into a stone. Her face was made to face the South China Sea, for her to wait forever for her husband's return.

The people in her hometown who heard this incident were gravely touched too. Thus, they named the mountain "Kinabalu" in remembrance of her. 

To them, the mountain is a symbol of the everlasting love and loyalty that should be taken as a good example by women.

Local legend among the people of Ranau, a district in Sabah, has it that St. John’s Peak was the stone which her body turned to.

        Mt. Kinabalu

Sunday, December 15, 2013

Jambatan Tamparuli – the world famous hanging bridge of Sabah



I knew the famous Jambatan Tamparuli or Tamparuli Hanging Bridge before my first visit through the romantic compositions song. Besides, the popularity of the bridge is partly due to some local tourist guide highlights it as the “Lover’s Bridge”.

The most famous landmark in Tamparuli is a long hanging bridge. The folk song Jambatan Tamparuli or Tamparuli hanging bridge is in Kadazan-Dusun language written by Justin Lusah in 1977 which was popularized internationally. 

Being a common language of mankind, folk song plays an important role in the promotion of a place. Not surprisingly, ever since ancient times, song or music has transcended differences in race, culture and color which given expression to aspiration for and pursuit of a peaceful and better world.

According to new research, listening to Beethoven or Badly Drawn Boy may help heart disease and stroke patients, as well as people suffering from stress.

The translation of the lyrics Jambatan Tamparuli is as follows:

Pak pak kang ku doh
Sumunsui doh jambatan
Jambatan doh Tamparuli
Bakasut tinggi oku

I’m making a “Pak Pak” sound
As I walk along the bridge
The bridge of Tamparuli
while wearing high-heeled shoes

Sumunsui doh jambatan
Jambatan doh Tamparuli
Pak pak kang ku doh
Bakasut tinggi oku

As I walk along the bridge
The Bridge of Tamparuli
I’m making a “Pak Pak” sound
while wearing high-heeled shoes

Silaka nodi kasutku
Naratu lo jambatan
Tinggal poh doh sutakin
Nowid ku di numuli

But damn my shoes
they fell off the bridge
only socks are left
which I brought home

Ontok di hari 3
Tamu lo Tamparuli
Mingusuk poh hilo kadai
Mogihum doh kasut tinggi

On Wednesday
It’s the Tamu in Tamparuli
I go around the shops
Looking for high-heeled shoes

Although the current new hanging bridge is not the original bridge that inspired Justin Lusah to write this ever green famous song.  
  
According to public record, the original Tamparuli hanging bridge build in the 1950s was washed away by flood in 1999. The left behind low bridge without hanging is remained in use for many decades and often than not flooded during the rainy season when the water level raise.

However, it’s too dangerous taking the risk to cross the lower bridge during raining season even through the water is only a few inches above the bridge.
 
The big flood tragedy occurred in May 1960 had claimed the life of two British soldiers and a local woman from Kota Belud when they tried to save her.

After 37 years, another flood occurred in 2 January 1999 that hit and washed away the original Tamparuli Bridge. It was claimed to be the biggest flood ever occurred, the fast flowing water at least 10 feet above the bridge.

The new bridge started construction after the old bridge was destroyed during the flood. Is a hanging bridge about 50 m in length, using wood without piling and officiated by the then Chief Minister of Sabah, Datuk Harris Salleh in the early 1980s.

Due to its fine engineering, the originally bridge, built in the 1950s is still using by vehicle now although after being hit by many logs and floodwaters over the years.

Tamparuli is a small town and a sub-district of Tuaran on west coast of Sabah. It takes 40 minutes from Kota Kinabalu. The population is dominated by native Dusuns and a number of Chinese doing business in the town.

The most famous landmark in Tamparuli town is the long hanging bridge. Another bridge, built for motor traffic, spans the river far below the hanging bridge and is frequently flooded during heavy rain.

Tamu is held every Wednesday where locals bring their crops and live-stocks for sale at the open market. 


 Chinese version of  Tamparuli Bridge which was apparently sung by a Ms Liu Qiu Yi and released in 1986.

Saturday, December 14, 2013

Fish SPA in Sabah -Tagal Sungai Moroli, Kg Luanti Baru



Fish spa “Tagal Sungai Moroli, Kg Luanti Baru” in the Moroli River of Kampong Luanti in Ranau, Sabah is so unique and different. It’s the only one of its kind.

Fish spa or fish pedicure normally is the patrons dipping the feet into a tub of water filled with a small fish called Garra rufa or “Doctor Fish”, the fish then eat away the dead skin on the feet.

Garra rufa are small native fish originated in Middle fish and have been used as a treatment for skin diseases.

In Moroli River, kampong Luanti in Ranau, the fish spa  that eat away the death skin is called “Garap” and “Lontong” and the spa is referred as “Tagal Sungai Moroli, Kampong Luanti Baru.”

However, “Tagal Sungai Moroli” does not reflect the meaning of fish spa as it means “no fishing” in local Kadazan-Dusun dialect as to preserve the environment and the ecosystem for the future generation.
 
Moroli River has as many as 10 species of different fish living in the 3 km long catchment area. The two major species which eating away the dead skin on the foot are the “Garap” and “Lontong”, in local Dusun langauage, scientific name for Garap is Tor tambroides.

Moroli is a Rocky River originating from the jungle area in the foot of Mount Kinabalu. The water is unpolluted, cool and clear.

The fishes here live in the natural habitat, swim freely in the Moroli River and lose its fear of people. 

The large group of “Garap” and “Lontong” swim together in a synchronized fashion, moving in the same direction simultaneously. They started sucking, nibbling and began eating away the dead skin on the foot without hurting as soon as you walk into the river.

The size of the fish is about 30 – 35 cm long with an estimated weight of about a kilogram and is toothless. They came in immediately when feeding with pellets. They are so tame that one could stroke gently and caught them easily.
 
Located in Kampung Luanti Baru, Ranau, 131 kilometers from Kota Kinabalu, 18 km away from Ranau Eown and 20 km away from Mt. KInabalu; “Tagal Sg Moroli, Kampong Luanti Baru” fish spa is managed by JKK Kampung Luanti lead by Mr. Jeffrin Majangki.

The fish pellets are packed in a small plastic and is RM1. 

Operating hour is from 9 am to 5 pm daily.
The entrance fees are as follows:
i. RM5 for foot only-RM5 for Malaysians and International; and
ii. Full body - RM10 for Malaysians and RM25 FOR International.





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